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Discussion Starter #1
OPTION ONE - I want to add a little bass in my car, nothing else...And I want my trunk space.

SOLUTION - There is already available a location under the rear deck covering to mount an 8" sub. To mount this sub however will most likely include cutting a hole in the deck covering AND to have a grill piece fabricated to make it look stock. HOW WILL THIS SOUND.....with some settings on the stock radio will sound OK.

AMPLIFIER choices - Equal or Less than $150.00
All the amplifiers below with the exception of the JBL have the ability to accept speaker (high) level input as well as RCA (low level) input. These prices were all quoted from www.sonicelectronix.com for those who would like to verify. The power of these amplifiers ranges from 150w - 300w @ 4Ohms and 250w - 500w @ 2 Ohms; according to the information online.

JBL GTO-501EZ - $110 (50 A) (Will require Hi-Low Level Converter)
Alpine MRV-M250 - $110 (40 Amp Fuse - If I Can Recall)
Clarion XR2120 - $116 (60 Amp Fuse)
Rockford Fosgate R500X1D - $140 (50 Amp)
Kicker CX300.1 (12CX3001) - $150

SUBWOOFER choices - Under $100 - To be used in the stock location at rear deck.

JBL GTO804 - $60 (4 Ohm)
Kicker C84 (10C84) - $60 (4 Ohm)
Kicker CompS84 (40CWS84) - $80 (4 Ohm)

HI-LOW LEVEL CONVERTER choices - $15 - $100

PAC $15 - $38
AudioControl LC2i - $100

INSTALLATION - $300 - including all wires, cables, removal and cutting of rear deck, fabrication of new "grill", installation of sub in closed stock location. $250 Without grill.

TOTALS

250 + 15 + 60 + 110 = $435.00 on the lower end.
300 + 100 + 80 + 150 = $630.00 on the higher end.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
This is for those with just the basic audio with 6 speakers system; 2 tweeters in the dash and 1 speaker in each door.

OPTION TWO - I want to add some bass and I am willing to give up A LITTLE trunk space AND I must be able to use the pass-through capability of my folded rear seats. IT HAS TO LOOK STOCK
.

SOLUTION - Is a small either sealed or vented (preferably vented) enclosure to the side and make it look stock. HOW WILL THIS SOUND.....with some settings on the stock radio will sound MUCH BETTER THAN OPTION 1. All prices are quoted from www.sonicelectronix.com and www.woofersetc.com.

AMPLIFIER choices - Equal or Less than $500.00 (Same as Above)
All the amplifiers below will be able to supply the subwoofers with the power needed. All will need a HI-LOW level converter for RCA input. The power of these amplifiers ranges from 500w - 600w @ 2 Ohms; according to the information online.

JBL GTO-501EZ - $110 - (50A) - 500w @ 2 Ohm
Rockford Fosgate R500X1D - $140 (50 A) - 500w @ 2 Ohm
Kicker IX500.1 - $200 - (? A) - 500w @ 2 Ohm

Hifonics ZRX1200.1D - $140 - (80A) - 600w @ 2 Ohm
JBL MS-A5001 - $307 - (80A)
JL Audio 500/1v2 - $500 - (60A) (can be bought for less, just look around)


SUBWOOFER choices - Under $200

Sundown Audio 8" SD-8 D4 - $140 (Dual 4 Ohm - 300 watts)
Sundown Audio 8" SA-8 D4 - $150 (Dual 4 Ohm - 400 watts)

Sundown Audio 10" SD-2 10D4 - $150 (Dual 4 Ohm - 500 watts)
Sundown Audio 10" SA-10 D4 - $185 (Dual 4 Ohm - 600 watts)

SUB ENCLOSURE - $300 - All new fabricated fiberglass vented subwoofer enclosure for any of the subwoofers above.


HI-LOW LEVEL CONVERTER choices - $15 - $100

PAC $15 - $38
AudioControl LC2i - $100



INSTALLATION - $300 - including all wires, and, cables

TOTALS

300 + 15 + 140 + 110 = $565.00 on the lower end.
300 + 100 + 185 + 500 = $1,085.00 on the higher end.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This is for those with just the basic audio with 6 speakers system; 2 tweeters in the dash and 1 speaker in each door.

OPTION THREE - I want to a much better sounding system; add some bass and change out my speakers. I am willing to give up A LITTLE trunk space AND I must be able to use the pass-through capability of my folded rear seats. IT HAS TO LOOK STOCK :)cause I am anal like that.

SOLUTION - This is where it starts to get really interesting; as the introduction of an Equalizer and/or a crossover is/are included in the mix (or a Digital Sound Processor DSP). An addition of a second amp is an option OR a very good 5-channel or 6-channel amp. As option 2, a small vented enclosure to the side and make it look stock. HOW WILL THIS SOUND?.....with the stock radio intact will sound a **** of a lot BETTER THAN OPTION 2. All prices are quoted from www.sonicelectronix.com, www.woofersetc.com and www.ebay.com

AMPLIFIER choices - Equal or Less than $900.00
All the amplifiers below are specifically chosen because of the low power/current demand on the stock electrical system and are more than willing and able to supply the subwoofers and interiors with the power needed. This section will be broken into two sections; a two-amplifier section and a single amplifier solution.

4-channel + subwoofer amplifier solution

JBL GTO-501EZ - $110 - (50A) - 500w @ 2 Ohm PLUS
JBL GTO-804EZ - $174 - (50A) - 100w x 4 @ 2 Ohm ($284 combo)

Rockford Fosgate R500X1D - $140 (50 A) - 500w @ 2 Ohm PLUS
Rockford Fosgate R400-4D - $155 (40 A) ($295 Combo)

JBL MS-A5001 - $307 - (80A) PLUS
JBL MS-A1004 - $308 - (60A) ($615 Combo)

JL Audio 500/1v2 - $500 - (60A) PLUS JL Audio 300/4v2 - $400 ($900 Combo)

One-Amplifier Solution

Zed Audio Leviathan III - $900 +/-

EQUILIZER / CROSSOVER

Clarion EQS746 - $60
Clarion MCD360 - $80

DSP - Digital Signal Processor (Always my recommendation) - This takes the place of multiple pieces (Eq, X-over, Time Alignment, Time Delay, etc)

JBL MS-8 - $480
Rockford Fosgate 3SIXTY.3 - $550


SUBWOOFER choices - Under $200

Sundown Audio 8" SD-8 D4 - $140 (Dual 4 Ohm - 300 watts)
Sundown Audio 8" SA-8 D4 - $150 (Dual 4 Ohm - 400 watts)

Sundown Audio 10" SD-2 10D4 - $150 (Dual 4 Ohm - 500 watts)
Sundown Audio 10" SA-10 D4 - $185 (Dual 4 Ohm - 600 watts)

SUB ENCLOSURE - $300 - All new fabricated fiberglass vented subwoofer enclosure for any of the subwoofers above.

COMPONENTS

Pioneer TS-D1720C - $100 x 2 = $200


HI-LOW LEVEL CONVERTER choices - $15 - $100

PAC $15 - $38
AudioControl LC2i - $100



INSTALLATION - $400 - including all wires, and, cables

TOTALS

400 + 15 + 300 + 200 + 140 + 60 + 80 + 284 = $1, 479.00 on the lower end.
400 + 300 + 200 + 185 + 550 + 900 = $2,535.00 on the higher end.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Infinity and Dimension

This is those the upgraded INFINITY system. These concepts can be used by owners of the DIMENSION system as well. I will need the owners of the pertinent systems to chime in a let us all know what impedance (OHM) are these systems running (if you have that information). I will however go on the standardized notion that most upgraded systems are 2-Ohm versions.

The stock amplifier supplies between 20 watts and 70 watts. So let the upgrades begin.

Being the owner of the upgraded factory audio, your options can be seen as very reasonably priced to the "ultimate" system.

The ultimate DNA system will be added at the end.......MAYBE :)

OPTION ONE - I am very happy with the way my system sounds. I only need some more bass; very little additional bass, as when I turn it up, it doesn't sound how I want.


SOLUTION - This is the most reasonable and cost effective way of doing it. It is simply Replacing your subwoofer with an aftermarket 8" subwoofer that can actually play free-air. HOW WILL THIS SOUND? It will sound practically the same, with a much better definition of bass. The bass will sound better because you are using a better driver (speaker) to begin with.

SUBWOOFER Options - With a 200 watt playing free-air; I would not put more than a third (1/3) of the power, that is 67 watts.

Kicker CompS82 (40CWS82) 8" Single 2-Ohm Comp S Series 200 watt Car Subwoofer - $80

JBL GTO804 8" Single 4 ohm GTO Series 200 watt Car Subwoofer - $60

INSTALLATION - $150

TOTAL

150 + 80 = $210
 

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Discussion Starter #5
This is for those with the UPGRADED AUDIO.

OPTION TWO - I want to add a little bass in my car by changing the stock subwoofer and adding an external amplifier.

SOLUTION - Adding an amplifier and a replacement subwoofer. HOW WILL THIS SOUND?.... This will have a better definition over option one.

AMPLIFIER choices - Equal or Less than $150.00
All the amplifiers below with the exception of the JBL have the ability to accept speaker (high) level input as well as RCA (low level) input. These prices were all quoted from www.sonicelectronix.com for those who would like to verify. The power of these amplifiers ranges from 150w - 300w @ 4Ohms and 250w - 500w @ 2 Ohms; according to the information online.

JBL GTO-501EZ - $110 (50 A) (Will require Hi-Low Level Converter)
Alpine MRV-M250 - $110 (40 Amp Fuse - If I Can Recall)
Clarion XR2120 - $116 (60 Amp Fuse)
Rockford Fosgate R500X1D - $140 (50 Amp)
Kicker CX300.1 (12CX3001) - $150

SUBWOOFER choices - Under $100 and 200 - 250 watts RMS - To be used a stock replacement with amplification. With this option, you have the option of choosing a sub of your choosing.

JBL GTO804 - $60 (4 Ohm)
Kicker C84 (10C84) - $60 (4 Ohm)
Kicker CompS84 (40CWS84) - $80 (4 Ohm)
Kicker CompS82 (40CWS82) - $80 (8" Single 2-Ohm)
JL Audio 8W3V3-4 - $200 (4 Ohm)


HI-LOW LEVEL CONVERTER choices - $15 - $100

PAC $15 - $38
AudioControl LC2i - $100

INSTALLATION - $200.

TOTALS

200 + 15 + 60 + 110 = $385 on the lower end.
200 + 100 + 200 + 150 = $650.00 on the higher end.

FROM HERE ON.... THE OPTIONS ARE THE SAME AS THE BASE EQUIPMENT. The changes are in the options.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This is for those with the INFINITY upgrade

OPTION THREE - I want to add some bass and I am willing to give up A LITTLE trunk space AND I must be able to use the pass-through capability of my folded rear seats. IT HAS TO LOOK STOCK
.

SOLUTION - Is a small vented fiberglass enclosure to the side and make it look stock. HOW WILL THIS SOUND.....with some settings on the stock radio will sound MUCH BETTER THAN OPTION 2. All prices are quoted from www.sonicelectronix.com and www.woofersetc.com.

AMPLIFIER choices - Equal or Less than $500.00 (Same as Above)
All the amplifiers below will be able to supply the subwoofers with the power needed. All will need a HI-LOW level converter for RCA input. The power of these amplifiers ranges from 500w - 600w @ 2 Ohms; according to the information online.

JBL GTO-501EZ - $110 - (50A) - 500w @ 2 Ohm
Rockford Fosgate R500X1D - $140 (50 A) - 500w @ 2 Ohm
Kicker IX500.1 - $200 - (? A) - 500w @ 2 Ohm

Hifonics ZRX1200.1D - $140 - (80A) - 600w @ 2 Ohm
JBL MS-A5001 - $307 - (80A)
JL Audio 500/1v2 - $500 - (60A) (can be bought for less, just look around)


SUBWOOFER choices - Under $200

Sundown Audio 8" SD-8 D4 - $140 (Dual 4 Ohm - 300 watts)
Sundown Audio 8" SA-8 D4 - $150 (Dual 4 Ohm - 400 watts)

Sundown Audio 10" SD-2 10D4 - $150 (Dual 4 Ohm - 500 watts)
Sundown Audio 10" SA-10 D4 - $185 (Dual 4 Ohm - 600 watts)

SUB ENCLOSURE - $300 - All new fabricated fiberglass vented subwoofer enclosure for any of the subwoofers above.


HI-LOW LEVEL CONVERTER choices - $15 - $100

PAC $15 - $38
AudioControl LC2i - $100



INSTALLATION - $300 - including all wires, and, cables

TOTALS

300 + 15 + 140 + 110 = $565.00 on the lower end.
300 + 100 + 185 + 500 = $1,085.00 on the higher end.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This is for those with the UPGRADED system and wants to add bass and change out the interior speaker.

OPTION FOUR - I want to a much better sounding system; add some bass and change out my speakers. I am willing to give up A LITTLE trunk space AND I must be able to use the pass-through capability of my folded rear seats. IT HAS TO LOOK STOCK :)cause I am anal like that.

SOLUTION - This is where it starts to get really interesting; as the introduction of an Equalizer and/or a crossover is/are included in the mix (or a Digital Sound Processor DSP). An addition of a second amp is an option OR a very good 5-channel or 6-channel amp. As option 3, a small vented enclosure to the side and make it look stock. HOW WILL THIS SOUND?.....with the stock radio intact will sound a **** of a lot BETTER THAN OPTION 2. All prices are quoted from www.sonicelectronix.com, www.woofersetc.com and www.ebay.com

AMPLIFIER choices - Equal or Less than $900.00
All the amplifiers below are specifically chosen because of the low power/current demand on the stock electrical system and are more than willing and able to supply the subwoofers and interiors with the power needed. This section will be broken into two sections; a two-amplifier section and a single amplifier solution.

4-channel + subwoofer amplifier solution

JBL GTO-501EZ - $110 - (50A) - 500w @ 2 Ohm PLUS
JBL GTO-804EZ - $174 - (50A) - 100w x 4 @ 2 Ohm ($284 combo)

Rockford Fosgate R500X1D - $140 (50 A) - 500w @ 2 Ohm PLUS
Rockford Fosgate R400-4D - $155 (40 A) ($295 Combo)

JBL MS-A5001 - $307 - (80A) PLUS
JBL MS-A1004 - $308 - (60A) ($615 Combo)

JL Audio 500/1v2 - $500 - (60A) PLUS JL Audio 300/4v2 - $400 ($900 Combo)

One-Amplifier Solution

Zed Audio Leviathan III - $900 +/-

EQUILIZER / CROSSOVER

Clarion EQS746 - $60
Clarion MCD360 - $80

DSP - Digital Signal Processor (Always my recommendation) - This takes the place of multiple pieces (Eq, X-over, Time Alignment, Time Delay, etc)

JBL MS-8 - $480
Rockford Fosgate 3SIXTY.3 - $550


SUBWOOFER choices - Under $200

Sundown Audio 8" SD-8 D4 - $140 (Dual 4 Ohm - 300 watts)
Sundown Audio 8" SA-8 D4 - $150 (Dual 4 Ohm - 400 watts)

Sundown Audio 10" SD-2 10D4 - $150 (Dual 4 Ohm - 500 watts)
Sundown Audio 10" SA-10 D4 - $185 (Dual 4 Ohm - 600 watts)

SUB ENCLOSURE - $300 - All new fabricated fiberglass vented subwoofer enclosure for any of the subwoofers above.

COMPONENTS

Pioneer TS-D1720C - $100 x 2 = $200


HI-LOW LEVEL CONVERTER choices - $15 - $100

PAC $15 - $38
AudioControl LC2i - $100



INSTALLATION - $400 - including all wires, and, cables

TOTALS

400 + 15 + 300 + 200 + 140 + 60 + 80 + 284 = $1, 479.00 on the lower end.
400 + 300 + 200 + 185 + 550 + 900 = $2,535.00 on the higher end.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Option For both BASE & UPGRADED systems

This is for the individual(s) that wants to completely change their system to suite themselves, including the head unit. I will attempt to choose pieces for this setup that will not affect the sonata's supplied current.

Setup includes:-

- Head Unit --- this can be sought after as a preference and can be as identifiable as the individual. Brands that works and I would recommend are ALPINE, PIONEER and JVC, in that order.

- Sound Processor(s) --- THIS IS PURELY OPTIONAL --- This section can be as cost effective as $40 (clarion eq) to as expensive as >$1,000 (mosconi 6to8 V8). Sound processors include Equalizers, Crossovers (active/or passive) and DSP (digital signal processor). This unit or these units allows us to tune the audio system to our liking.

- Amplifier(s) --- Zed Audio Leviathan III (6-channel) is an awesome amplifier with our power supply constraints (alternator and battery). There are other amplifiers on the market that can produce the power levels, however, at the cost of being very power hungry.

- Speakers --- This is determined whether or not the individual is going with an active setup or not.... Drivers include HIGHS, MIDS, LOWS.
Components systems are used quite frequently, and are entirely up to the owner's discretion and spending power.

----ODDS AND ENDS--- there are quite a bit more of information to be had, however, this can be used as a guideline to achieve your goal(s).


Here is a system diagram to illustrate this option




Enjoy all, and Thanks for reading.
 

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Awesome write-up

First I must say, this is a killer write-up. Much appreciated. I am a brand new owner of a 2014 Sonata SE. I have the touch with nav and dimension system. I am one of those that doesn't really care for the base, but doesn't want to give up any trunk space so I chose just to take the cheap way out and get the replacement kicker sub. I ordered the CompS (40CWS82). I'm hoping this is correct as I see you have listed both a 2 ohm and 4 ohm system. I am far from a car audio guy so I'm just flying by the seat of my pants. I know this isn't going to get me a whole lot, but I just really want a little bit of a boost in bass, not something that will rattle my trunk. I know you recommend that this be done by professionals, but I generally like to do things myself, so I was wondering if there was anything showing the removal and reinstallation of the sub? I have been looking around and can't seem to find anything. It seems like just the grill popping off (i hate plastics, they always seem so fragile) but I want to make sure I do it correctly. Any help is appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Audio Upgrade 2014 SE

First I must say, this is a killer write-up. Much appreciated. I am a brand new owner of a 2014 Sonata SE. I have the touch with nav and dimension system. I am one of those that doesn't really care for the base, but doesn't want to give up any trunk space so I chose just to take the cheap way out and get the replacement kicker sub. I ordered the CompS (40CWS82). I'm hoping this is correct as I see you have listed both a 2 ohm and 4 ohm system. I am far from a car audio guy so I'm just flying by the seat of my pants. I know this isn't going to get me a whole lot, but I just really want a little bit of a boost in bass, not something that will rattle my trunk. I know you recommend that this be done by professionals, but I generally like to do things myself, so I was wondering if there was anything showing the removal and reinstallation of the sub? I have been looking around and can't seem to find anything. It seems like just the grill popping off (i hate plastics, they always seem so fragile) but I want to make sure I do it correctly. Any help is appreciated!
I had suggested this particular kicker 8" sub, as your stock "upgraded" audio system runs at 2-ohms, so to take full advantage of the stock amplifier's +/- 70 watts, the use of a 2-ohm sub would certainly be worth it. Please bare in mind that the 8" sub from the factory is a DVC (dual voice coil) driver. As far as installation is concerned, it should be easy enough with the right tools to get off the plastic trim. The installation of the new kicker sub will need a "ring" or two as well as I would suggest under-hanging the sub (installing from the underside of the rear deck); as this will allow enough space between the surround and the "grill" when the speaker hits the low notes.

With a qts of .57, your sub is close enough the 0.7 required / suitable for infinite baffle. Thanks for reading and I do hope adding this to your 2014 SE gives you the results you are seeking; and thanks for reading.

By all means, please post photos of your setup. Thanks.
 

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For the rear door speakers, you chose components. where are you putting the tweeters? Wouldn't it be easier to go with a coax?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
For the rear door speakers, you chose components. where are you putting the tweeters? Wouldn't it be easier to go with a coax?
Yes. It is cheaper and easier to use coaxial speakers in the rear doors as there is not a location for a tweeter.

Another option is to use convertible components in the rear. Such as JL c3. Other companies makes them, I can give you other information later this evening.

Truth be told. The signal going to the rear doors are not full range from the stock head unit. If you have changed your head unit to an aftermarket one...... then, I would spend the money to go components in the rear doors (convertible).


Hope this helps,
Sam.
 

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I had suggested this particular kicker 8" sub, as your stock "upgraded" audio system runs at 2-ohms, so to take full advantage of the stock amplifier's +/- 70 watts, the use of a 2-ohm sub would certainly be worth it. Please bare in mind that the 8" sub from the factory is a DVC (dual voice coil) driver. As far as installation is concerned, it should be easy enough with the right tools to get off the plastic trim. The installation of the new kicker sub will need a "ring" or two as well as I would suggest under-hanging the sub (installing from the underside of the rear deck); as this will allow enough space between the surround and the "grill" when the speaker hits the low notes.

With a qts of .57, your sub is close enough the 0.7 required / suitable for infinite baffle. Thanks for reading and I do hope adding this to your 2014 SE gives you the results you are seeking; and thanks for reading.

By all means, please post photos of your setup. Thanks.
Lots of Valuable info Donotattempt thank you very much! I'm looking to replace only my factory sub and leave everything else stock for now so my question is should i just get the single voice coil Kicker CompS82 40CWS82 or does kicker have a DVC 2 ohm version available ?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey Leon, thanks for the compliment.

Here is the thing with wanting to swap out the stock sub "for now"; you're going to be double and triple spending to upgrade the sub stage of the system, once you have then completely swapped out the interior speakers.

If you want to have a much better bass fulfillment, there are low powered 10", 12", and 15" that can be used on a simple mounted board between the cabin and the trunk. Now, this option, you'll love.

The above mentioned setup can also be used when you decide to use aftermarket amplifiers and drivers, these will also shine even more so. How do I know of this setup? I had two 15s in an infinite battle alignment.

How did these IB 15s sounded? Very phenomenally. If you are thinking of considering the alternative to the 8", you'll be very satisfied; as these 15s played the lows. The high bass frequencies are almost not there, so the door speakers will need to fill in the areas that the 15s, 12s or 10s.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ALL OUT SETUP

Hi all, I believe I have exhausted all the sonata has to offer electrically to power an all-out setup, and, it is pretty impressive for what it is.

The setup is as follows:-

Stock Head Unit
JL Audio Fix86
Mosconi 6to8 (x2) DSPs
Pioneer PRS-D800 (x2) amplifiers
Zed Audio Leviathan III (x2) midrange amplifiers
Zed Audio Minotaur III interior subwoofer amplifier
Mosconi Zero.3 subwoofer amplifier
Rockford Fosgate Pro NT-8 (x4) tweeters
Eminence 10" beta CMBR midrange driver (x2)
Eminence 10" beta-A midrange-midbass (x2)
Faital Pro 6" midrange (x2) rear doors
Audiofrog G10d4 (x2) in cabin 10" subwoofers (vented enclosure)
Audiofrog G12d4 (x4) in trunk 12" subwoofers

All wires are OFC
1/0 ga. power and ground under hood, front to rear, main.
4 ga. On smaller and interior amplifiers
1/0 ga. on subwoofer amplifiers
8 ga. speaker wires on subwoofers
14 ga. wires on all tweeters and midrange, and, midbass speakers
UPGRADED battery under hood
Additional battery in trunk
-----stock alternator, for now-----

Sound deadening and treatment
License plate
Trunk lid

Subwoofer enclosures
Dual vented enclosure for the 10s in cabin
Dual sealed (shared) enclosure for each pair of 12s

...The result...
You get a sound that will rival those of SUVs and get the gratifying feeling of "yup 🙂, Mhmm, aha, dang-right".

One thing to be said, it was/is a nightmare to tune. However, once I got it dialled in, it was very satisfactory.

How many of us Sonata audio heads would do it? Not sure! Just glad to be here, and to assist in any way I can with Information.

SEB
 

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Ok, DoNotAttempt, I have a 2014 with the NAV and Dimension audio. I am thinking of using either a fix86 or an AudioControl LC7i. Do you have any more pictures of your setup? Namely how did you hookup your Fix86. I am about to do similar, except I'm only replacing stock speakers, adding 2 10" subs and a couple of amps. Working it out before I start really shopping.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I would suggest going with the Fix86 over the LC7i, you'll get better results, in my opinion. However, you will still need an interface between the Fix86 and the amplifiers.

Since you're "only" replacing speakers, adding subs and a couple amplifiers; I must say your budget will determine the equipment used.

That being said, i would suggest going with a Helix DSP. This would yield your best result and without the use of going with the Fix86 as well. The helix DSP goes for approximately $600, and the Fix86 retails at $450 i believe. Spend the extra and get the Helix DSP and leave out the Fix86.

With the helix DSP, you get the option of head unit signal, crossover, equalization, phase control of the subwoofer, time alignment, and most of all a built-in RTA feature.

Below is the processing of the audio in my 2013 Sonata, basic/standard head unit.
20191026_022833.jpg
 

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I would suggest going with the Fix86 over the LC7i, you'll get better results, in my opinion. However, you will still need an interface between the Fix86 and the amplifiers.
Why would I need an interface? According to JL when I asked about the Fix86, it handles all the SUMing of the signal, and flattening of the EQ and timing, so wouldn't I then just be able to go to the amps from that and dial it in with the amps? This is a different level of stuff then I have previously dealt with so I'm learning, please excuse my ignorance.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Correct....it flattens the existing stock unit EQ curves, time alignment, and sums the channels giving you "full range" signals at the output.
However, after this.....when you are requiring to adjust your eq points etc, prior to your amplifiers, you cannot.....at least not with the Fix.

As noticed in the processing stage of my sonata, I have 2 mosconi 6to8 processors; because i run all channels active. The reason for the interface between the Fix86 and the amplifier is to tweak the signals and not depend on the EQ on the amplifiers.

I was also in your shoes at one point, and take it from me..... you don't need the Fix86 if you go with something such as the Helix DSP.

Hope this helps.
 
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