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Hi!
I stopped by the dealership to have my 2011 sonata GLS recent recall-serviced. The service manager recommended me to get mine urgently serviced of the above coupler replacement. Unfortunately do I have to pay all the expenses caused out of my pocket, for the reason of warranty expired. I've already noticed some problem of free play or movement of the steering wheel, but not too seriously annoying me. His quote shows, the part: $1.39, labor: $222.20, total $237.13 including taxes. He also explained this coupling-worn out problem is not related with the previous recall campaign of steering column. So....
I'd like to get it done by myself. My question is how I can access to this coupler 1)Remove steering wheel OR 2)Remove front knee panel OR the other step needed. I'd appreciate for some help in advance to give me some clue or explanation for this job. Thanks again for your help.
 

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Hi,
My 2011 Sonata has the same problem and the Hyundai Service Manager recommended the same to me at a recent recall service. However, the quote I got was ~290$ plus tax. I went to Hyundai South. I am not a car person. So would like to get it done by a mechanic. Which Hyundai did you get a quote of 237.13 including taxes?

Thanks!
 

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Hi!
I stopped by the dealership to have my 2011 sonata GLS recent recall-serviced. The service manager recommended me to get mine urgently serviced of the above coupler replacement. Unfortunately do I have to pay all the expenses caused out of my pocket, for the reason of warranty expired. I've already noticed some problem of free play or movement of the steering wheel, but not too seriously annoying me. His quote shows, the part: $1.39, labor: $222.20, total $237.13 including taxes. He also explained this coupling-worn out problem is not related with the previous recall campaign of steering column. So....
I'd like to get it done by myself. My question is how I can access to this coupler 1)Remove steering wheel OR 2)Remove front knee panel OR the other step needed. I'd appreciate for some help in advance to give me some clue or explanation for this job. Thanks again for your help.
It's ridiculous that this part fails after 47K like on my car. This issue and the engine recall that still has not been fixed will make this the last Hyundai that I will ever purchase.
 

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I have the same problem on my 2013 Hyundai Sonata after 125K miles. I bought the part for a buck and some change. I plan on doing it myself as i saw online on YouTube that it can be done without dropping the steering wheel. That all i needed was a T27 (hex drive) to remove the 3 screws, i believe. I am mechanically inclined so i was thinking that it will be simple and would only take a couple hours (approx 2) at tops based on the price that the dealship would cost for labor (90-125 per hour).
 

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I just replaced mine, but BEWARE...you will still have to go to the dealer to have the codes reset. None of the videos I watched on how to replace it mentioned this. Power steering DOES NOT WORK after disconnecting the power steering motor. Also, while the videos say you can get to the 3 T-30 torque screws that must come off to get to the coupler, I couldn't get to them without dropping the steering column. The space is too tight to get to them without it. I'd still do it myself, but it was a HUGE trial and error process.
 

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Hyundai has extended cover on that rubber piece to 100,000 mile...... about sick of doing them for warranty,, Hyundai Motor only pay dealer 48 minute labor time,, wow,, I make rough $11 per job... do it in 40 minute if so inclined with tools already lined up and I dont have to get up from car to get something or go pee

Customer pay we charge is 2.5hr, which seems to be going rate with most any dealer for this job at retail.. to which I might take $44 per replacement if I figure my tax correct
 

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Easy- No code reset needed

I just did the job using this video.

I cant post links yet but go to you tube and search "Kia or Hyundai Steering Wheel Noise/Clunk" choose the video from "OzMechanic".

There is no need to get the code reset.

Hope this helps-M5
 

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So I just went ahead and ordered the part and replaced it yesterday. After re hooking the negative to the battery, I started the car and it ran funny for a little bit. It mellowed out so I figured it was ok. I left for work this morning and started my car about 15 mins before I was ready to go. When I came back out to leave, the check engine light is on. It stayed on the whole way to work ( about 35mins) and when I initially started the car it reved up higher than normal but again mellowed out. Does the engine need to relearn something as the car is driven or should I get the light checked? Everything seems to be normal after it returns to normal idle and I start driving. Thanks for any info and advice
 

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Can I ask you guys if this is related to the feel that the steering wheel stick while driving over a period of time. I have a 2012 and when driving, and more noticeable on the highway, as I track the steering, it feels like the steering wheel “sticks” and has to have a bit of pressure to maintain tracking. The dealer told me about a steering coupler but can’t remember if he replaced it under warranty. I have had this complaint for 5 years since I bought the car and the dealer cannot locate, or reproduce the problem. They have even wiped out the computer program to reinstall, tore apart the column itself, and still cannot locate the issue. Any ideas?
 

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I just did mine yesterday. Took me about 2 hours. If I did it again I could probably cut that time in half. Mine startled clunking at around 120,000 miles and it now has 150,000. The car no longer rattles going over ruts and potholes and the clunking goes away. Steering doesn’t t wander anymore either.
 

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